The Zuva Bag: Easy Round Crochet Crossbody Bag Pattern

 

Pattern name: Zuva Bag

Designer: Mirrymas

Difficulty: Easy

Hook size: 5.00 mm

Size: One size: 20 cm (about 8 in) in diameter

Steps: 13

Images: 19

Description

The Zuva Bag is a round crossbody bag with a lovely knitted look. Zuva means "sun" in Shona: the bag is round like the sun, and its stitches spiral out from the centre like rays. Two round panels are worked in the knit stitch from a magic ring, each with a cut-out handle, then sewn together with metal rings for a long strap. A button and button loop finish it off. It is an easy bag, even for beginners, and every round is written out in full.

Materials

• Hook — 5.00 mm crochet hook
• Yarn — 3 mm braided cotton macramé cord (a bit thicker than the usual 3 mm polyester cords), or any thick, firm yarn, even t-shirt yarn; about 145 metres (159 yards)
• Stitch markers — 2 [icon: notions]
• Metal rings — 2, for the strap (optional; you can attach the strap straight to the bag) [icon: notions]
• Button — 1 button, 20 mm across [icon: notions]
• Notions — scissors, tapestry needle, sewing needle and sewing thread (for the button) [icon: notions]

Special Stitch Instructions

• Knit stitch: each single crochet has two upright "legs" that make a V. Instead of inserting the hook into the top of the stitch, insert it between the two legs, so the hook comes out through the middle of the stitch, then work a regular single crochet. Rounds 2 to 12 are worked in knit stitch, so the pattern calls these stitches knit stitches.
• Magic ring: an adjustable loop of yarn that you work the first round into, then pull tight to close the centre.
• Increase: work 2 knit stitches into the same stitch.

Step 1: Round 1

Make 2 panels, the same. Work in rounds without joining, and move the stitch marker up to the first stitch of each round.

1. Make a magic ring.

2. Work 1 single crochet into the ring and place a stitch marker in it to mark the start of the round.

3. Work 5 more single crochet into the ring. Keep these stitches a little loose, so it is easier to insert the hook in the next round.

4. Pull the tail to close the centre. (6 stitches)

Step 2: Round 2

From Round 2 onwards, work every stitch as a knit stitch, and add 6 stitches in every round so the panel stays flat. At the start of every round, remove the stitch marker, work the first stitch, and put the marker back into it.

Round 2: in the first stitch, insert the hook between the legs of the stitch (not under the top loops) and work a single crochet into that space; this is the knit stitch. Work another knit stitch into the same stitch; this is an increase (2 stitches in one stitch). Work an increase into each of the remaining stitches. Pull the tail again to close the gap in the centre. (12 stitches)

Step 3: Rounds 3 to 5

Round 3: increase in the first stitch, then work 1 knit stitch into the next stitch. Repeat (an increase, then 1 knit stitch) all the way round. (18 stitches)

Round 4: work 1 knit stitch into the first stitch and 1 knit stitch into the second stitch, then increase in the third stitch. Repeat (1, 1, increase) all the way round. (24 stitches)

Round 5: increase in the first stitch, then work 1 knit stitch into each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat all the way round. (30 stitches)

Step 4: Rounds 6 to 9

Round 6: work 1 knit stitch into each of the first 4 stitches, then increase in the 5th stitch. Repeat all the way round. (36 stitches)

Some rounds start with an increase and others start with a knit stitch. If the increases sit on top of each other, they make corners and the circle turns into a hexagon; starting the rounds differently keeps the circle round. When a round begins with knit stitches, it may end with a knit stitch instead of an increase; that does not matter, as long as you have the right number of stitches.

Round 7: increase in the first stitch, then work 1 knit stitch into each of the next 5 stitches. Repeat all the way round. (42 stitches)

Round 8: work 1 knit stitch into each of the first 6 stitches, then increase in the 7th stitch. Repeat all the way round. (48 stitches)

Round 9: increase in the first stitch, then work 1 knit stitch into each of the next 7 stitches. Repeat all the way round. (54 stitches)

Quick summary for experienced crocheters: Round 2, increase in every stitch (12). Round 3, *increase, 1* (18). Round 4, *1, 1, increase* (24). Round 5, *increase, 1, 1, 1* (30). Round 6, *4 knit stitches, increase* (36). Round 7, *increase, 5 knit stitches* (42). Round 8, *6 knit stitches, increase* (48). Round 9, *increase, 7 knit stitches* (54).

Step 5: Round 10

By now you may see small corners forming where the increases stack up. In this round you move the increases so they sit between those corners.

1. Work 1 knit stitch into each of the first 4 stitches.

2. Increase in the next stitch.

3. *Work 1 knit stitch into each of the next 8 stitches, then increase in the next stitch.* Repeat 4 more times (5 times in all).

4. Work 1 knit stitch into each of the last 4 stitches. (60 stitches)

The corners should now be gone and the panel should be round. This is the last increase round.

Step 6: Round 11, the Handle Opening

1. Work 1 knit stitch into each of the first 5 stitches.

2. Chain 18.

3. Skip the next 10 stitches and join the chain with a knit stitch into the 11th stitch.

4. Work 1 knit stitch into each stitch until you are back at the starting point.

Step 7: Round 12

1. Work 1 knit stitch into each stitch until you are 3 stitches before the handle chain.

2. Work these 3 stitches as knit stitches, but insert the hook one round below. This makes the join between the handle and the bag stronger.

3. Work 1 single crochet into each chain of the handle, to make it firmer.

4. Work the first 3 stitches after the handle in the same way: knit stitches with the hook inserted one round below.

5. Work 1 knit stitch into each stitch until you are back at the starting point.

Step 8: Round 13

Insert the hook into each stitch normally (not as a knit stitch) and work 1 slip stitch into every stitch all the way round, including along the handle.

Step 9: The Joining Band

The joining band goes along the lower edge of the panel, where the two panels will be sewn together. It covers 40 stitches: the 60 stitches of the round, minus the 10 skipped for the handle and 5 on each side of the handle opening.

1. Count 5 stitches from the handle opening on each side and leave them free. Place a stitch marker in the 6th stitch on each side. Start counting from the first stitch after the skipped handle stitches. On the side where your hook is, the 6th stitch is the last stitch of the slip stitch round, right next to your hook. The band is worked between the two marked stitches, round the bottom of the panel.

2. You start at the marked stitch next to your hook. Pull the loop on your hook through to the wrong side (the inside) of the panel, then chain 1 and turn.

3. Along the edge, each stitch has 3 loops. Insert the hook into the loop closest to you, and leave the other 2 loops (the ones farther from you). They make a neat edging on the outside of the bag.

4. Work 1 single crochet into that loop of each stitch until you reach the marked stitch on the other side. You should have 40 stitches. This number matters, because the second panel must have the same number so the two can be joined.

5. Chain 1 and turn. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

6. Insert the hook below both loops of each stitch and work 1 single crochet, until you are back at the starting point. Be careful to work into the last stitch too; it is easy to miss.

7. Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside.

Step 10: The Second Panel

Repeat Steps 1 to 9 to make a second panel exactly the same as the first, with 40 stitches in the joining band.

Step 11: Joining the Panels

1. Thread the tapestry needle with a length of yarn long enough to go all the way round the bag.

2. Place the two panels together and line up the joining bands, so each stitch on one panel matches the same stitch on the other. Do not leave any stitch out.

3. Leave a long tail to fasten off inside later. Sew the outer loops of the two bands together, leaving the inner loops.

4. At the 3rd stitch, put a metal ring in place: pass the needle through the ring, then join the next stitch, so the ring is held in the seam.

5. Carry on sewing all the way round. When you have 3 stitches left at the other end, attach the second metal ring in the same way.

6. Finish the seam and fasten off the ends inside the bag.

Step 12: The Strap

1. Leave a long tail, make a slip knot and attach it to one metal ring with a single crochet.

2. Chain 100, or as many chains as you need for the length you want. Make sure the chain is straight and not twisted.

3. Insert the hook into the other metal ring and work 2 single crochet into the ring.

4. To make the strap firmer, skip the 2 single crochet you have just made and slip stitch into each chain until you are back at the starting point.

5. Insert the hook into the first ring and join with a single crochet, work another single crochet to match the other side. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and weave the ends inside the strap so they are hidden.

If you are not using metal rings, attach the strap straight to the sides of the bag.

Step 13: The Button and Button Loop

1. Sew the button in the centre of one side of the bag. If you like, count the stitches to find the centre and mark it before you sew.

2. On the other side, directly opposite the button, attach the yarn with a slip stitch.

3. Make a chain long enough to reach across to the button on the other side and wrap around it. Hold the chain against the button as you go, and add or remove chains until it fits snugly.

4. Create a button loop or button hole by joining in the middle of the chain with a slip stitch then slip stitch the remaining chains until you reach the last chain which is joined to the bag. Insert the loop on the hook through the bag cut, fasten off and hide the ends.

Your Zuva Bag is complete!

Author Notes

• Keep the stitches in the magic ring a little loose, so it is easier to insert the hook in the next round.
• Some rounds start with an increase and others with a knit stitch. This moves the increases around, so the circle stays round instead of turning into a hexagon.
• When a round begins with knit stitches in the first stitches, it may end with a knit stitch instead of an increase. That does not matter: just make sure you have the right number of stitches at the end of the round.
• Although the maker says the cotton cord is 3 mm thick, it is a bit thicker than the usual 3 mm polyester cords. A thinner cord will give a smaller bag.

Customizing

• A bigger bag: keep adding 6 stitches in each round, with 1 more knit stitch between the increases each time, until the panel is the size you want. Keep moving the increases so the circle stays round.
• Strap: chain more than 100 for a longer crossbody strap, or fewer for a shoulder strap.
• No metal rings: attach the strap straight to the sides of the bag.
• Yarn: any thick, firm yarn will work. A bigger bag needs more than 145 metres, so buy extra and keep all your yarn from the same dye lot.

Video

Watch the video tutorial

Conclusion

Congratulations, your Zuva Bag is ready to wear! I love how the knit stitch spirals out from the centre like the rays of the sun. You are very welcome to sell finished bags made from this pattern; please credit Miriam from Mirrymas Crafts as the designer with a link to my shop.

If you have any questions, leave a comment below or email me at mirrymascrafts@gmail.com. I'd love to see your finished bags, so please share your photos and tag me on Instagram, TikTok or Pinterest at @mirrymascrafts.

More patterns to try:

• Forest Green Classic Handbag: a structured handbag with built-in handles, a button and a tassel.
• The Mellow Tote: an easy, roomy double crochet tote with built-in handles.
• Crochet Granny Stripe Stitch: the classic granny look worked in rows.
• Crochet Cobblestone Stitch: round bumps made with single and treble crochet.

Thank you so much for supporting independent crochet design, and happy crocheting!