There is something deeply satisfying about a crochet project that looks much more complex than it actually is. The Diamond Trellis Tote Bag is the perfect example. With its rich, raised texture and geometric precision, this bag isn't just a functional accessory—it’s a statement piece.
In this guide, I’m sharing the full free pattern for the Diamond Trellis Tote, along with my professional tips for mastering the "Front Post" stitches that give this bag its signature 3D look.
If you’ve struggled with crochet bags being too "holey" or flimsy, the Diamond Trellis stitch is your solution. Because this stitch involves working stitches over previous rows (Front Post Double Crochet), it creates a double-thick fabric.
The result? A sturdy, structured tote that doesn't necessarily require a lining to keep your belongings secure. It’s dense, durable, and has a professional "boutique" feel.
Material Recommendations
To get the best "pop" from your trellis ridges, your yarn choice is critical.
The Fiber: If you want a bag that is incredibly durable and easy to clean, Polyester Cord or Macrame yarn is a fantastic choice. polyester is water resistant, making it perfect for beach bags or daily totes that might see a bit of wear and tear. It often has a beautiful, silk like luster that makes the diamond pattern look modern and high end. For a very Rigid bag that stands up on its own, look for polypropylene cord. This material is stiff which helps the ridges maintain a sharp architectural look. I also recommend a 100% Mercerized Cotton or a Cotton-Nylon blend. Mercerized cotton has a slight sheen that catches the light on the raised diamonds, making the texture stand out.
The Color: If this is your first time working with post stitches, avoid dark colors like navy or black. It is much easier to see where to "anchor" your trellis legs in lighter, solid shades like cream, sage, or terracotta.
The Hook: For this bag, I am using a 4 mm hook. Remember my "Hook Down" rule—using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn suggests will ensure your diamonds stay crisp and don't sag.
The Fiber: If you want a bag that is incredibly durable and easy to clean, Polyester Cord or Macrame yarn is a fantastic choice. polyester is water resistant, making it perfect for beach bags or daily totes that might see a bit of wear and tear. It often has a beautiful, silk like luster that makes the diamond pattern look modern and high end. For a very Rigid bag that stands up on its own, look for polypropylene cord. This material is stiff which helps the ridges maintain a sharp architectural look. I also recommend a 100% Mercerized Cotton or a Cotton-Nylon blend. Mercerized cotton has a slight sheen that catches the light on the raised diamonds, making the texture stand out.
The Color: If this is your first time working with post stitches, avoid dark colors like navy or black. It is much easier to see where to "anchor" your trellis legs in lighter, solid shades like cream, sage, or terracotta.
The Hook: For this bag, I am using a 4 mm hook. Remember my "Hook Down" rule—using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn suggests will ensure your diamonds stay crisp and don't sag.
The Secret to Straight Diamonds
The Diamond Trellis bag pattern relies on Front Post stitches. The most common mistake beginners make is pulling their post stitches too tight, which "bunches" the fabric.
Pro-Tip: When working your post stitches, pull your first loop up to the height of the current row before finishing the stitch. This ensures your bag stays flat and the diamonds look elongated and elegant rather than squashed.
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner / Intermediate
Materials
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Crochet Hook: 4.0 mm crochet hook
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Yarn: 3 mm thick polyester cord (Approx. 2 rolls / 400 meters total). Substitute
with any sturdy, chunky yarn that matches the gauge of a 4mm hook.
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Stitch markers (5)
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Scissors
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Yarn needle
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Optional: Handmade tag, fabric lining, zipper
Gauge & Measurements
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Base: 30 cm long x 9 cm wide (after 6 rounds)
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Bag Body (laid flat): 33 cm wide x 24 cm tall (excluding handles)
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Handles: 70 cm long
Abbreviations (US Terms)
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ch - chain
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sc - single crochet
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sl st - slip stitch
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st(s) - stitch(es)
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tr - treble crochet (yarn over twice)
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fptr - front post treble crochet
● FPtr6tog - Front post treble crochet 6 together (Cluster stitch)
Special Stitch Instructions
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Tr crochet stitch: The treble crochet (often abbreviated as tr) is a tall, beautiful
stitch that creates a loose, flexible fabric. It is one step taller than a
double crochet. Note: These instructions use standard US crochet terms. (In UK
terms, this same stitch is called a Double Treble).
Step-by-Step Instructions (tr stitch)
Step 1: Yarn over twice Before inserting your hook into the stitch, wrap
the yarn over your hook two times. You should now have three loops of yarn
resting on your hook.
Step 2: Insert the hook into the next stitch (or chain) where you want to
place the treble crochet.
Step 3: Yarn over your hook and pull that yarn through the stitch. You
should now have four loops on your hook.
Step 4: Yarn over your hook and pull it through just the first two loops
on your hook. You should now have three loops remaining on your hook.
Step 5: Yarn over your hook again and pull it through the next two loops
on your hook. You should now have two loops remaining on your hook.
Step 6: Yarn over your hook one last time and pull it through the final
two loops on your hook. You should now have one loop left on your hook, and
your treble crochet stitch is complete!
Quick Summary
Pattern: Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a
loop (4 loops on hook). [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops] three times.
●
FPtr6tog (Front Post Treble
6 Together): Yarn over twice, insert hook from
front to back to front around the post of the specified stitch as shown in an
illustration below
yarn over and pull up a loop,
yarn over, pull
through the first 2 loops on the hook,
Yarn over, pull through the next 2 loops on the hook
Repeat this for the next two tr stitches.
Skip the ch-1, sc, ch-1 valley section.
Part 1: The Base
(Worked in continuous rounds, joined
with a slip stitch at the end of each round)
Foundation:
Ch 26.
Round 1:
1.
Skip the 1st ch from the hook.
sc in the 2nd ch and place a stitch marker in this first st.
2.
sc in the next 23 chs.
3.
In the last ch, work 5 sc. (Place
a marker in the 2nd and 4th sc of this 5-sc group).
4.
Rotate your work to crochet
along the opposite side (the back loops) of the foundation chain.
5.
sc in the next 23 chs (back of
the chs).
6. Work 4 sc in the same chain
space where you placed your very first sc. (Place a marker in the 2nd and
4th sc of this 4-sc group).
7. sl st into the first marked sc
to join. (56 sts which is a multiple of 8) Note: You should now have
4 stitch markers marking the "corners" of your oval base. Stitches
between markers will remain 1 sc each, while the marked stitches will receive
increases.
Round 2:
1.
Ch 1 (does not count as a
stitch). sc in the same st (mark this st as the beginning of the round).
2.
sc in each st until you reach
the next stitch marker.
3.
In the marked st, work 3 sc. (Move
the marker up to the 2nd/middle sc of this new 3-sc group).
4.
sc in the next st.
5.
In the next marked st, work 3
sc. (Move the marker up to the 2nd/middle sc).
6.
sc in each st down the side
until the next marker.
7.
In the marked st, work 3 sc. (Move
the marker up to the 2nd/middle sc).
8.
sc in the next sts.
9.
In the last marked st, work 3
sc. (Move the marker up to the 2nd/middle sc).
10.
Skip the joining sl st
and ch-1 from the previous round. sl st into the first marked sc to
join. (64 sts)
Note: the slip stitch and chain 1 at
the end of each round do not count as stitches, skip them
Rounds 3 - 6: Repeat Round 2. Your stitch count will increase by 8 stitches each
round (2 increases per corner).
●
At the end of Round 6, you will
have 96 stitches.
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Remove the 4 corner stitch
markers. You will only need to keep the beginning of round marker.
Part 2: The Body (Sides of the Bag)
Round 1 (Treble Shells):
1.
Ch 4 Work 2 tr in the same st. (refer
to the top under stitch instructions on how to crochet a tr stitch)
2.
Ch 1, skip 3 sts, sc in
next st, ch 1. Skip 3 sts, [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr] all in the next st.
3.
Repeat the previous step 2
around until you are near the end.
4. To finish the very first shell: skip 3sts (excluding the sl st from the previous round), work 3 tr in the very first st (the exact same base as your starting ch-4).
Ch 1, yarn over
and insert hook at the top of the beginning ch-4(the marked ch) and work a half
double crochet st (hdc) to join.
Round 2 (Front Post Clusters):
1.
Ch 4, mark the base of the
chain 4.
2.
Work a FPtr6tog (refer to top section on
how to work a FPtr6tog) over the next 6 tr sts (Note:
this bridges the 3 tr from the end shell of the previous round and the 3 tr
from the next shell, skipping the sc/chains in the valley).
3. Ch 4. sc into the ch-3 space at the peak of the shell.
4.
Ch 4. Work a FPtr6tog
over the next 6 tr sts (3 down one side of the valley, 3 up the other side). Ch
4. sc in the ch-3 space at the peak.
5.
Repeat the previous step 4
until the round is done. Make sure you have done a ch4 at the end of the round
before joining with the sl st . Join with a sl st to the beginning ch-4 (at the
marked base).
Round 3 (Treble Shells):
Ch 3, 3 tr in the same space. Ch1.
3. sc into the next sc at the peak from the
previous round (insert your hook right into the center "V" of the sc
for a neat finish).
Ch 1. Work [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr] into the centre circle of the next
cluster. Ch 1.
4.
Repeat the previous step 3
until the round is done.
5.
At the end of the round, insert
hook in the marked st and join with a sl st.
Round 4 (Front Post tr Clusters):
1. For this round to align properly, you must start at the peak.
sl st across the next few stitches until you reach the peak sc.
2. Ch 4. Mark the base of the ch
4.
3. Work a FPtr6tog over the
next 6 tr sts (skipping the sc/chains in the valley).
4. Ch 4. sc into the ch-3 space at
the peak of the shell.
5. Ch 4. Work a FPtr6tog
over the next 6 tr sts (3 down one side of the valley, 3 up the other side). Ch
4. sc in the ch-3 space at the peak.
6. Repeat the previous step 4
until the round is done. Make sure you have done a ch4 at the end of the round before
joining with the sl st. Join with a sl st to the beginning ch-4 (at the marked
base).
Rounds 5 - 14: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 alternately until you have completed 14 rounds for the body (ending on a Round 4 / Front Post Cluster round). You can add more repeats if you want more height.
Part 3: Top Edging
Round 1:
Work 4 sc into the first ch space. Mark the
first sc. (making sure that the top and bottom chains are brought together
as you crochet).
1.
Work 1 sc securely into the
center hole of the FPtr6tog cluster.
2. Work 8 sc over the next
large gap (spanning across the ch-4 space, the peak sc, and the next ch-4
space). Work 1 sc into the center hole of the next
FPtr6tog cluster.
3. Repeat the previous step 3
around.
5. sl st to the first sc to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 4: The Handles (Make 2)
The pattern uses a classic Romanian Cord
for strong, non-stretchy straps.
1.
Leave a long 30 cm tail. Make a
slip knot and Ch 2.
2.
Skip the 1st ch from the hook.
Insert hook into the 2nd ch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull
through both loops (1 sc made).
3.
Turn your work clockwise. You
will see a single vertical loop on the left side of the stitch you just made.
Insert hook under this loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through
2 loops.
4. Turn your work clockwise again.
Now you will see two parallel back loops on the side. Insert hook under
BOTH loops, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops.
5.
Repeat Step 4 continually until
the cord measures 70 cm (or your desired length).
6.
Fasten off, leaving another 30
cm tail.
Part 5: Assembly
1.
Thread the long tail of a
handle onto a yarn needle.
2.
Position the handles on the
inside of the bag. Align them with the textured peaks and valleys of the
pattern so they are visually centred.
3.
Sew securely into the dense
parts of the bag body (avoiding the lacy gaps), making sure the needle doesn't
show through the front side. Fasten off and weave in the ends securely.
4.
Repeat for all 4 ends of the
handles.
Customizing & Finishing Your Tote
1. Adding the Handles
For a bag this textured, I recommend a simple long handle so it doesn't compete with the diamond pattern. I used the Romanian cord pattern for my straps to ensure zero stretch.
2. Should You Line It?
While the Diamond Trellis is a dense stitch, I still recommend a light cotton lining if you plan on carrying heavy items like a laptop or tablet. It protects the "back" of your post stitches from getting snagged by keys or pens.
3. Blocking for Perfection
Post stitches can sometimes cause the fabric to twist slightly. I highly recommend Steam Blocking your finished bag. Pin it to a flat surface and lightly steam the ridges; this "sets" the diamonds and gives the bag a professional, retail-ready finish.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: My diamonds look lopsided. What am I doing wrong? A: This usually happens if you miss the "skipped" stitch behind the post stitch. Always ensure you are skipping the correct number of stitches in the current row so your diamonds stay centered.
Q: Can I make this bag larger? A: Yes! The Diamond Trellis usually works in multiples of 4 or 8. Simply increase your foundation chain by that multiple to make a wider tote.
Q: Is this bag beginner-friendly? A: If you know how to Double Crochet and Front Post Double Crochet, you can make this bag! I recommend watching my YouTube Tutorial:
How to crochet the Diamond Trellis tote bag Video tutorial
for the first few rows to get the "rhythm" of the diamonds.
I would love to see your version of the Diamond Trellis Tote! Share your photos on Instagram and tag @MirryMasCrafts or use the hashtag #DiamondTrellisChallenge.
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