The Dream Spike Stitch Tote Bag is a modern, structured shoulder tote characterized by its striking alternating stripe design and rich woven surface texture. Created using alternating regular single crochet and elongated "spike stitches," this bag creates a thick, durable fabric that holds its shape beautifully without needing an interior fabric lining.
Whether you are looking for an everyday shopping tote, a chic market bag, or a statement accessory, this pattern is written with beginners in mind. Every step is explained in full, plain English—with no confusing abbreviations—complete with stitch counts, color-change milestones, and marker placement guides.
Finished
tote bag in beige and black macramé cord, showing the bold vertical spike
stripes, integrated shoulder straps, and matching fringe tassel accent.
Pattern
Specifications
- Skill Level:
Confident Beginner (uses single crochet, chain, slip stitch, and the
elongated spike stitch).
- Bag Size:
One size (spacious everyday shoulder tote).
- Finished Measurements:
- Height:
26 cm (approximately 10.25 inches) from bottom base to top rim
- Width:
39 cm (approximately 15.5 inches) laid flat across widest point
- Handle Length:
50 cm (approximately 19.7 inches) shoulder drop
- Gauge / Tension:
Gauge is not critical for this design. A small variation in tension will
only slightly adjust the finished dimensions of your tote bag.
Materials
& Tools
- Crochet Hook:
Size 6.00 mm (US Size J/10).
- Yarn / Cord:
3 mm macramé rope cord, t-shirt yarn, or any sturdy bulky yarn.
- Yardage Needed:
- Color A (Beige): Approximately 240 meters / 262 yards
- Color B (Black): Approximately 85 meters / 93 yards
- Stitch Markers:
7 locking stitch markers (ensure 1 marker is a contrasting color to mark
the official start of each round).
- Notions:
Tapestry yarn needle, sharp scissors, measuring tape.
Beginner's
Step-by-Step Technique Guide
1.
Chain
Wrap your yarn
over the hook from back to front, then draw that loop through the loop already
resting on your hook.
2.
Single Crochet
Insert your
hook under both top loops of the stitch. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull
up a loop to the front (2 loops on your hook). Yarn over again and pull
smoothly through both loops on your hook.
3.
Increase
Work two single crochet
stitches into the exact same stitch. This widens the curved ends of your oval
base smoothly without buckling.
4.
Slip Stitch
Insert your
hook into the designated stitch. Yarn over and pull that loop directly through
the stitch and
through the loop on your hook in one single, continuous motion.
5.
Working into the "Back Loop Only" (BLO)
Looking down
from above, each stitch forms a small horizontal "V". The strand
closest to you is the front loop; the strand furthest away is the back loop.
Working into the back loop leaves a clean, raised horizontal line along the
base edge, helping your bag walls stand upright.
6.
The Spike Stitch (Elongated Single Crochet)
The spike
stitch is worked exactly like a regular single crochet, except you insert your
hook into the stitch one
round below your current working round:
- Identify the stitch directly below the next stitch in
your working round.
- Insert your hook into that lower stitch, yarn over, and
pull up a long, relaxed loop to match the height of your current working
round (2 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.
- Important:
Always skip the regular stitch on your current round that sits directly
behind your spike stitch. The spike stitch overlays and replaces it,
keeping your total stitch count consistent.
Important
Pattern Notes
- Continuous Rounds: The oval bottom and textured sides are worked in
continuous spiral rounds. Do not join with a slip stitch or turn your work
at the end of rounds unless explicitly instructed.
- First-Stitch Marker: Always place your contrasting stitch marker into the
very first stitch of each round and move it up as you proceed.
- Stitch Counts:
Total stitch counts are provided in bold parentheses at the end of each
round (e.g., Total:
69 stitches).
- Clean Color Changes: When changing colors, begin your final stitch with the
old color. When you have 2 loops left on your hook, yarn over with the new
color and pull through to finish. This ensures the new color begins
crisply on the following round.
Step-by-Step
Instructions
Step
1: The Bottom Oval Base (Worked in Beige)
The
base is worked in continuous rounds around both sides of your initial starting
chain.
Foundation
Round:
- Make a slip knot on your hook and chain 23 stitches
in beige yarn.
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into the second chain from your hook.
Place your contrasting
color stitch marker into this stitch immediately. (This marker indicates the
official beginning of every round).
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into each of the next 20
chain stitches across.
- When you reach the very last chain stitch at the end,
work 5 single
crochet stitches all into that same last chain. Place
stitch markers into the 2nd,
3rd, and 4th stitches of this 5-stitch corner group.
- Turn your work so you are looking at the underside of
the foundation chain. Work 1 single crochet stitch into the back loop of
each chain stitch heading back toward the start.
- In the final chain space (which corresponds to the
underside of the very first stitch), work 4 single crochet stitches. Place
stitch markers into the last
3 stitches of this 4-stitch corner group.
- (You will now have 7 markers in total: 1
beginning-of-round marker and 6 corner expansion markers).
Total: 50 stitches around the oval.
Close-up of
corner increase stitches with three yellow locking stitch markers placed into
the curved turn.
Completed
foundation oval round showing red markers at the starting end and yellow
markers at the opposite curve.
Round
2:
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into the first stitch
containing your beginning marker. Move the marker up into the stitch you
just made.
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into every unmarked stitch
across the straight side until you reach the next marker.
- In each marked stitch, work an increase (2
single crochet stitches into that same stitch). Place the stitch marker
back into the first
of those two stitches.
- Continue repeating this rule all the way around:
- Work 1
single crochet stitch into every unmarked stitch.
- Work 2
single crochet stitches into every marked corner stitch,
always replacing the marker into the first stitch of the pair.
- When you arrive back at your beginning marker, Round 2
is finished.
Total: 56 stitches.
Rounds
3 and 4:
- Repeat the exact instructions for Round 2 two more
times.
- At the end of Round 4, you will have 68 stitches around
the perimeter.
- Adjustment for Pattern Repeat: Work 1
extra single crochet stitch into the final stitch of Round
4 to make the total count 69
stitches. (An
odd stitch count is required for the alternating spike stitch pattern to
align seamlessly).
Total: 69 stitches.
Round
5 (Base Rim Transition):
- Remove all six corner markers. Keep only your main
beginning-of-round stitch marker in place.
- Work 1
slip stitch into every stitch all the way around the edge.
- This creates a clean, sturdy braided border around the
base of your bag.
Total: 69 slip stitches.
Step
2: The Textured Spike Stitch Sides & Color Stripes
Turn
the base to inspect the edge. You will see 3 distinct loop strands along the
outer border. In Round 1, you will work into the back loop only to help the
walls fold upward cleanly.
Side profile of
completed flat base showing the three edge loops and crochet hook placement.
Round
1 (Setting the Base Wall):
Work
this entire round into the back loop only of each stitch.
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into the back loop of the
first stitch. Place your stitch marker into this stitch to mark the start
of the round.
- Work 1 single crochet stitch into the back loop of each
remaining stitch all the way around the oval.
Total: 69 stitches.
Round
2 (Introducing the Spike Stitch):
From
this round forward, work under both standard loops.
- Work 1 regular single crochet stitch into the first
stitch. Move your marker up.
- In the next stitch, work 1 spike stitch (insert hook into the stitch of
Round 1 directly below, pull up a long loop, yarn over, and pull through
both loops. Remember to skip the stitch on the current round behind it).
- Work 1 regular single crochet stitch into the next
stitch.
- Continue repeating this alternating sequence all the
way around:
- *Work 1 spike stitch in the following stitch, then
work 1 regular single crochet stitch in the next stitch.*
- Repeat from * to * until the round is complete. (Note: Because your round has 69
stitches, starting with a regular single crochet means you will end the
round with a regular single crochet).
Round
3 (Alternating the Pattern):
- Because the final stitch of Round 2 was a regular
single crochet, begin Round 3 by working 1 spike stitch into the first
stitch. Move your marker up.
- Work 1 regular single crochet stitch into the next
stitch.
- Continue alternating around:
- *Work 1 spike stitch in the following stitch, then
work 1 regular single crochet stitch in the next stitch.*
- Repeat from * to * until the round is complete.
Rounds
4 through 27 (Building the Textured Wall & Color Stripes):
Continue
alternating between Round
2 and Round
3, switching yarn colors at the milestones listed below.
Tip
on Color Changes: On the very last stitch before a new color round, perform
your final yarn over with the new color.
- Rounds 1 through 10: Work in Beige
yarn. (Change to Black
yarn on the last yarn-over of Round 10).
- Rounds 11 through 15 (Stripe 1): Work 5 rounds in Black yarn. (Change to Beige on the last
stitch of Round 15).
- Rounds 16 through 20 (Stripe 2): Work 5 rounds in Beige yarn. (Change to Black on the last
stitch of Round 20).
- Rounds 21 through 25 (Stripe 3): Work 5 rounds in Black yarn. (Change to Beige on the last
stitch of Round 25).
- Rounds 26 through 27: Work 2 rounds in Beige yarn.
Close-up of
solid beige lower walls showing the texture created by alternating single
crochet and spike stitches.
Completed
striped tote body showing distinct color bands: beige base, black stripe, beige
stripe, and black stripe.
Step
3: Handles & Final Assembly (Worked in Beige)
Lay
your tote completely flat so the side folds are crisp and symmetrical.
Setting
Up Handle Placement:
- Place a temporary reference stitch marker into the
exact side fold of the bag rim. (This
temporary marker is only a measuring guide and will be removed shortly).
- Starting from this reference marker and counting around
the rim, place your permanent handle markers into:
- Stitch 10
(First handle start)
- Stitch 25
(First handle finish)
- Stitch 45
(Second handle start)
- Stitch 60
(Second handle finish)
- Once all four handle markers are securely in place,
remove the temporary side reference marker.
Hands pointing
to temporary side reference marker and pink beginning marker along the top
edge.
Flat tote bag
with yellow markers positioned at stitches 10, 25, 45, and 60 to outline both
handles.
Round
28 (Forming the Handle Chains):
- Continue crocheting in the alternating spike stitch
pattern in Beige
yarn until you arrive at the first marked stitch (stitch number 10).
- In stitch 10, work 1 spike stitch, then chain 50 stitches
(this open chain
creates your first shoulder strap. If you prefer a longer or crossbody
handle, add 10 to 15 extra chains here).
- Being careful not to twist the chain, skip across to
the next marked stitch (stitch number 25) and anchor the chain by working 1 spike stitch
directly into stitch 25.
- Continue in the alternating spike stitch pattern across
the bag face until you reach stitch number 45.
- In stitch 45, work 1 spike stitch, then chain 50 stitches
(second shoulder strap).
- Skipping the stitches between markers, anchor the strap
into stitch number 60 with 1
spike stitch.
- Continue working in pattern across the remaining
stitches to complete the round.
Crocheting the
50-chain strap and anchoring across the top opening of the bag.
Round
29 (Reinforcing the Rim & Handles):
- Continue working in the spike stitch pattern across the
body rim.
- When you reach a handle, work 1 single crochet stitch into each
of the 50 chain stitches along the strap to give it
strength, thickness, and structure.
- Continue in the established pattern across the side
rim, work 1 single
crochet stitch into each chain across the second strap,
and finish the pattern stitches to the end of the round.
- Join the last stitch to the first stitch of the round
with 1 slip stitch.
- Cut your working yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the
tail completely through the working loop and pull tightly to fasten off.
- Using your tapestry needle, weave in all loose ends
neatly along the inside of your tote bag.
Optional
Finishing Touch: The Shoulder Tassel
- Cut 20 to 25 strands of beige macramé cord, each
measuring approximately 30 cm (12 inches) long.
- Fold the bundle of strands in half around the base of
one handle.
- Wrap a separate strand tightly around the bundle about
2.5 cm (1 inch) below the fold to form the tassel neck, knot securely, and
trim the bottom edges evenly with sharp scissors.
🎉 Congratulations! Your
Dream Spike Stitch Tote Bag is complete and ready for everyday adventures!