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Hi, I'm Mirrymas, a crochet designer, and this is where I share my free crochet patterns, step-by-step tutorials and practical tips. Whether you're picking up a hook for the first time or looking for your next project, you'll find easy-to-follow patterns for bags, phone pockets, accessories and more. You'll also find helpful guides like how to care for your finished pieces and tricks to help you crochet like a pro. Many of my patterns come with video tutorials on my YouTube channels, Mirrymas Crochet and Mirrymascrafts, so you can follow along stitch by stitch. You can also find me on Instagram and TikTok at @mirrymascrafts. Grab your yarn and let's make something beautiful together!

How to Crochet a Structured Purse with Zipper (Free Pattern)

 

Pattern name: The Other Handbag

Designer: Mirrymas

Difficulty: Intermediate

Hook size: 6.00 mm

Size: One size: 6 in (15 cm) tall and 10 in (25.5 cm) wide

Gauge: 10 stitches x 9 rows = 4 in

Steps: 10

Images: 12

[PHOTO 1: cover, the finished black handbag with its top handles and decorative bow with 3 wooden beads]

Description

The Other Handbag is a sleek, structured everyday purse with a sturdy rectangular flat base, seamless round-by-round side walls, built-in top handles, a zipper closure and a charming decorative bow accented with wooden beads. It is written in full plain English, with clear stitch counts, marker placement guides and zipper installation steps.

Materials

  • Hook — 6.00 mm (US size J/10) crochet hook
  • Yarn — 3 mm macramé rope cord, t-shirt yarn, or any sturdy bulky yarn; about 250 metres (273 yards), black or a colour of your choice
  • Zipper — 1 matching zipper, sized to fit the bag opening [icon: notions]
  • Beads — 3 wooden beads [icon: notions]
  • Stitch markers — 6 locking stitch markers, with 1 in a contrasting colour to mark the start of the round [icon: notions]
  • Notions — tapestry yarn needle, regular sewing needle, black sewing thread, bright contrasting thread (for temporary tacking), sharp scissors and a measuring tape [icon: notions]

Special Stitch Instructions

  • Decrease (single crochet two together): insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook). Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops in one motion. This turns two stitches into one.

Step 1: The Rectangular Base

The base is worked in flat rows before you work around its outer edge.

Foundation row: make a slip knot and chain 21. Work 1 single crochet into the second chain from your hook, then 1 single crochet into each remaining chain across. Chain 1 and turn. (20 stitches)

Rows 2 to 11: work 1 single crochet into each stitch across. Chain 1 and turn at the end of each row. At the beginning of Row 11, place a stitch marker in the very first stitch.

Base edge round: after Row 11, do not turn. Work single crochet evenly all the way around the outer edges of the rectangle, with 2 single crochet in each corner to keep the corners from curling. Continue until you are back at the marked starting stitch. (63 stitches)

[PHOTO 2: Step 1, the completed rectangular base with a stitch marker at the starting corner]


Step 2: The Side Walls, Rounds 1 to 9

From now on, you work in continuous spiral rounds.

Round 1: work this whole round into the back loop only. Work 1 single crochet into the back loop of the first stitch and place your contrasting marker in it to mark the start of the round. Work 1 single crochet into the back loop of each remaining stitch all the way around. (63 stitches)

Rounds 2 to 9: work 1 single crochet under both loops of each stitch all the way around, moving your marker up at the start of each round. (63 stitches in each round)

Step 3: Decrease Shaping, Rounds 10 to 13

After Round 9, count from your start-of-round marker and place extra stitch markers in stitches 21, 32 and 53. You now have 4 markers: the start-of-round marker and 3 decrease markers.

Round 10: at the first stitch, remove the marker, work a decrease, and put the start marker back into this new stitch. *Work 1 single crochet into each stitch until you reach the next marker, then work a decrease into the marked stitch.* Repeat from * all the way around. (59 stitches)

Rounds 11 and 12: repeat Round 10 two more times. (55 stitches after Round 11 and 51 stitches after Round 12)

Round 13: remove the three decrease markers, keeping only the start-of-round marker. Work 1 single crochet into every stitch around. (51 stitches)

[PHOTO 3: Step 3, inside view with stitch markers at stitches 21, 32 and 53, and a different marker at the start of the round]


Step 4: The Zipper Rim, Round 14

Insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch and work 1 slip stitch. Work 1 slip stitch into the back loop only of every stitch all the way around. Fasten off. You will come back to this edge later for the handles.

Step 5: The Zipper Flaps (Make 2)

You will crochet two small flat flaps along the inside of the rim, one at the front and one at the back.

Row 1: on the inside of the bag, find the second stitch of Round 14. Insert your hook into the back bump of that stitch and join your yarn with a slip knot. Work 15 single crochet across the back bumps. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 2: work 1 single crochet into each of the 15 stitches. Chain 1 and turn.

Rows 3 and 4: repeat Row 2 two more times. Fasten off.

Repeat these 4 rows directly opposite on the other side of the inside of the bag, so you have two matching 15-stitch flaps facing each other.

[PHOTO 4: Step 5, starting the first zipper flap inside the rim]


[PHOTO 5: Step 5, working the zipper flap]


[PHOTO 6: Step 5, the zipper flap in progress]


[PHOTO 7: Step 5, two matching zipper flaps on opposite sides of the bag rim]


Step 6: Sewing in the Zipper

1. Leave a 10 cm tail at the end of the zipper. Using a bright contrasting thread (such as yellow), tack (temporarily stitch) one side of the zipper to one of the flaps.

2. Tack the other side of the zipper to the opposite flap in the same way.

3. Thread your sewing needle with matching black sewing thread and sew the zipper permanently along the tacked line on both sides.

4. Carefully pull out and remove all of the bright tacking threads.

[PHOTO 8: Step 6, tacking the zipper to the flap]


[PHOTO 9: Step 6, the zipper tacked with yellow thread before permanent black stitching]


[PHOTO 10: Step 6, the zipper sewn in]

Step 7: The Handle Foundation, Round 15

Go back to Round 14 at the bag opening. Join your black yarn with a slip stitch in the back loop, and work 1 slip stitch into the back loop of every stitch around.

Counting from your starting point, place stitch markers in stitches 4, 19, 29 and 44.

Step 8: The Handles, Round 16

1. Slip stitch in the back loop of each stitch until you reach the marker at stitch 4.

2. At stitch 4, insert your hook under both top loops (not just the back loop, so the handle is strong) and work 1 slip stitch.

3. Chain 27. This is your first handle.

4. Anchor the chain by working 1 slip stitch under both loops into the marked stitch 19.

5. Slip stitch in the back loop across to the marker at stitch 29.

6. At stitch 29, work 1 slip stitch under both loops, chain 27 for the second handle, and anchor it with a slip stitch under both loops at stitch 44.

7. Slip stitch in the back loop to complete the round.

[PHOTO 11: Step 8, top view of the bag with the two 27-chain handles anchored under both loops]


Step 9: Finishing the Handles, Rounds 17 to 19

Work 1 slip stitch into the back loop of every stitch around, including all the stitches along both handle chains, for 3 rounds. Fasten off and weave in all the loose ends.

Step 10: The Bow

1. Cut 4 strands of yarn, each about 40 cm (15.7 inches) long.

2. Tie them together into a neat shoelace bow.

3. Thread a small scrap of yarn through the knot at the back of the bow, and use it to tie the bow securely onto the front of your bag.

4. Thread the 3 wooden beads onto three of the hanging strands of the bow. Tie a secure knot at the end of each strand so the beads cannot slide off, and trim the ends neatly.

Your Other Handbag is fully assembled, zipped and ready to wear!

[PHOTO 12: Step 10, the finished bow tied to the front of the bag with 3 wooden beads on the tails]

Author Notes

  • The base is worked back and forth in flat rows, while the sides, zipper rim and handles are worked in continuous rounds.
  • Always place your contrasting stitch marker in the very first stitch of each round and move it up as you go, so you never lose your starting point.
  • Work 2 single crochet into each corner of the base edge to keep the corners from curling or buckling.
  • When anchoring the handles, insert your hook under both top loops rather than just the back loop, for extra handle strength.
  • A small variation in tension will only slightly change the finished size of your handbag.

Video

Watch the video tutorial

Conclusion



Congratulations, your Other Handbag is ready to wear! I love how the clean textured walls, the built-in handles and the little beaded bow come together into such a neat everyday bag. You are very welcome to sell finished bags made from this pattern; please credit Miriam from Mirrymas Crafts as the designer.

If you have any questions, leave a comment below or email me at mirrymascrafts@gmail.com. I'd love to see your finished bags, so please share your photos and tag me on Instagram, TikTok or Pinterest at @mirrymascrafts.

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Thank you so much for supporting independent crochet design, and happy crocheting!