How to Crochet the Sammi Tote Bag: Free Beginner-Friendly Pattern & Tutorial

Whether you're running to the farmer's market, heading to the beach, or looking for a stylish everyday accessory, a handmade crochet tote bag is the perfect project. If you are a beginner or looking for a fast, satisfying make, this step-by-step  pattern is for you!

This classic crochet tote bag features a solid, sturdy single-crochet base, a gorgeous textured shell-stitch body, and durable Romanian cord handles that won’t stretch out under weight.

Scroll down for the complete free pattern, step-by-step instructions, and quick tips on how to customize the size to fit your life!

If you need a visual guide to help you along the way, check out the full step-by-step video tutorial:

👉 Watch the Sammi Tote Bag Video Tutorial on YouTube

📌 Project Overview

• Difficulty Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner

• Finished Dimensions: Approximately 31 cm (12.2") tall by 32.5 cm (12.8") wide (excluding handles).

• Handles Length: Approximately 85 cm (33.5") long (customizable).

• Time to Complete: 4–6 hours (depending on speed).

🧶 Materials & Tools Needed

Before you pick up your hook, let's gather the supplies. Using the right materials ensures your bag has great structure and durability!

• Yarn/Cord: Approximately 400 meters of 3 mm Polyester Cord (often called macramé cord or crochet cord). You can substitute this with bulky cotton yarn, T-shirt yarn, or double-stranded worsted weight cotton yarn for a similar structured result.

• Crochet Hook: 4.0 mm (US G/6). Tip: If you use a different yarn or cord, use the hook size recommended on the label, or go down one size to keep your stitches tight and sturdy!

• Stitch Markers: 5 markers (crucial for marking the beginning of rounds and aligning handles).

• Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends and sewing on handles.

• Scissors: For cutting the cord.

• Optional Lining Materials: Cotton fabric, thread, a zipper, or a magnetic button closure if you want to line your bag.

📝 Stitch Abbreviations & Definitions

This pattern is written in US terms. If you are used to UK terms, please refer to the conversions below:

US Abbreviation	US Stitch Name	UK Conversion
ch	Chain	Chain
sc	Single Crochet	Double Crochet
dc	Double Crochet	Treble Crochet
sl st	Slip Stitch	Slip Stitch
st / sts	Stitch / Stitches	Stitch / Stitches
sk	Skip	Miss

Abbreviation	Stitch Name	Description
ch	Chain	Yarn over, pull through loop.
sl st	Slip Stitch	Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop.
sc	Single Crochet	Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops.
dc	Double Crochet	Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice.
inc	Increase	Work 2 stitches into the same stitch.
st(s)	Stitch(es)	The loops you work into.
*	Repeat Pattern	Repeat the instructions listed between the asterisks.

📐 Special Stitch Guide

1. The Shell Stitch (5-dc group)

The gorgeous texture of this bag's body comes from alternating shell stitches and single crochets.

• How to work a Shell: Work 5 double crochets (dc) into a single designated stitch. This causes the stitches to fan out, forming a shell.

2. Romanian Cord (I-Cord Variant)

Standard chained straps will stretch and sag under the weight of items in your bag. The Romanian Cord is a game-changer! It creates a strong, rounded, braid-like cord that maintains its shape perfectly.

• How to work a Romanian Cord: Chain 2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from your hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops (first sc made). Turn your work slightly to find the single small loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. Turn your work again to find the two small loops on the side. Insert your hook under both side loops, yarn over, pull through those two loops, yarn over, and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook. Repeat this turn-and-insert process for a dense, corded texture.

🧼 Step-by-Step Crochet Tote Bag Pattern

🧱 Phase 1: The Sturdy Flat Base (Rounds 1–5)

The base is worked in continuous rounds of single crochet around both sides of the starting chain to create a flat, seamless oval.

Foundation: Chain 43.

Round 1 (Setting the Oval Base):

1. Skip the first chain from the hook (this acts as your turning chain).

2. Work 1 sc in each of the next 40 chains.

3. In the very last chain, work 5 sc in the same stitch. This acts as a curved turn to bring your hook around to the opposite side of your chain.

4. Rotate your work and crochet back along the opposite side (the underside loops of your foundation chains). Work 1 sc in each of the next 40 chain loops.

5. In the final chain space (the underside of the first chain you worked into), work 4 sc. (Along with your very first sc, this makes a matching group of 5 sc on this end).

6. Do not join with a slip stitch. Place a stitch marker in the very first stitch of this round to track your starting point.

• Stitch Count Check: You should have exactly 90 stitches (40 + 5 + 40 + 5). Note: This stitch count is vital because the shell stitch body requires a multiple of 6.

Rounds 2–5:

1. Work 1 sc into the first marked stitch of the previous round. Move your stitch marker up to this new first stitch.

2. Simply work 1 sc in each stitch around the entire oval, maintaining a 1:1 ratio.

3. As you round the curved ends, continue working 1 sc in each stitch (no increases are needed here; this allows the base to naturally transition and curve upward slightly to form the walls of the bag).

4. Repeat this simple sc round until you have completed 5 full rounds of single crochet.

• Stitch Count Check: Keep checking that your stitch count remains exactly 90 stitches at the end of Round 5.

🌊 Phase 2: The Shell Stitch Body (Rounds 6–27)

We will now transition from continuous rounds to joined rounds to keep the shell stitches perfectly aligned.

Round 6 (First Shell Round):

1. Remove your stitch marker. Insert your hook into the first stitch of the round and join with a slip stitch (sl st). (Note: This slip stitch is purely for joining and does not count as a stitch).

2. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). Place a stitch marker in the 3rd chain to make joining at the end of the round easy.

3. Work 2 dc in the same first stitch (this creates a "half shell" of 3 dc).

   
   
   

4. Skip 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next stitch.

5. Skip 2 stitches, then work 5 dc in the next stitch (your first full shell completed).

6. Skip 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next stitch.

7. Repeat the pattern: [Skip 2, 5-dc shell in next, Skip 2, 1 sc in next] all the way around the bag.

8. As you approach the end, you should have 2 unworked stitches remaining (plus a slip stitch) before your starting chain-3. Skip those 2 stitches.

   
   
   

9. To complete your starting half-shell, work 2 dc into the very first stitch (the base of your starting chain-3).

   

10. Remove the marker from the chain-3 and join with a sl st into the 3rd chain. Your starting shell now has 5 double crochets!

    

Round 7 (Alternating Shell Round):

In this round, we place our shells in the "valleys" (the sc stitches) and our single crochets on the "peaks" (the middle of the 5-dc shells) of the previous round. This creates an interlocking fabric.

1. chain 1, insert hook in the same stitch or marked chain (in which we inserted our hook to crochet the slip st that joined the 3 dc to the 2dc, the starting shell of the previous round) and crochet 1 single crochet. Mark this sc as the first stitch of the round.

   
   
   

2. Skip 2 stitches (the remaining dc of the shell).

3. Work 5-dc shell directly into the single crochet from the previous round (the valley).

4. Skip 2 stitches and work 1 sc in the next stitch (which should be the 3rd/middle double crochet of the previous round's shell—the peak).

   
   
   

5. Repeat the pattern: [Skip 2, 5-dc shell in the sc, Skip 2, 1 sc in the middle dc of the shell] all the way around.

6. When you reach the end of the round, skip the final 2 stitches and join with a sl st into your first marked sc of Round 7.

   
   
   

Round 8 (Repeated Half-Shell Start):

1. Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Mark the 3rd chain.

   
   
   

2. Work 2 dc in the same joining stitch.

3. Skip 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next stitch (the middle of the previous shell).

4. Skip 2 stitches, then work 5-dc shell in the next single crochet.

5. Repeat the pattern around.

6. End the round by skipping the final 2 stitches, working 2 dc in the starting stitch to complete the shell, and joining with a sl st to the 3rd chain of your starting chain-3.

   
   
   

Rounds 9–27 (Building the Height):

1. Continue alternating Round 7 and Round 8 to build up the height of your bag.

2. Stop when you have completed 22 rounds of shell stitches (making a total of 27 rounds from the bottom of your bag).

   
   
   

3. At the end of Round 27, join with a slip stitch, cut your cord leaving a 15–20 cm tail, and pull it through the loop to fasten off.

4. Using your tapestry needle, weave the tail down into the inside of the bag, securing it through multiple stitches to ensure it won’t unravel.

🧵 Phase 3: The Romanian Cord Handles (Make Two)

These beautiful handles are worked separately and sewn securely onto the inside of the bag.

1. Leave a 20 cm tail of cord at the beginning before making your slip knot (you will use this tail to sew the handle to the bag).

2. Chain 2.

3. Skip the first chain. Insert your hook into the 2nd chain, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops (your first sc).

4. Turn your work slightly. Insert your hook into the single small diagonal loop on the side of the stitch. Yarn over, pull through that loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on your hook.

5. Turn your work again. You will now see two parallel diagonal loops on the side of your work. Insert your hook under both loops. Yarn over, pull through those two loops, yarn over, and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook.

6. Repeat step 5: [Turn your work, insert under the two side loops, pull through two, pull through two].

7. Continue this rhythmic repeat until your cord measures approximately 85 cm (33.5") (or your desired length for a shoulder or hand strap).

8. Once you reach your target length, cut the cord, leaving another 20 cm tail, and pull it securely through the active loop.

9. Repeat the process to make an identical second handle.

📍 Phase 4: Measuring, Aligning, & Sewing

Now, let's assemble your masterpiece! Proper handle alignment is key to a professional-looking bag.

       ___________________________________________
      |   (•)                               (•)   |  <-- Stitch Markers
      |    |                                 |    |
      |<--6cm                               6cm-->|
      |    |                                 |    |
      |    |  [Handle Overlap: ~8cm inside]  |    |
      |    |                                 |    |

1. Lay your crocheted tote bag perfectly flat on a table.

2. Measure 6 cm (2.4") inward from the left outer edge and place a stitch marker on the top rim. Repeat this by measuring 6 cm (2.4") inward from the right outer edge on both the front and back of the bag. These 4 points are where your handles will sit.

   
   
   

3. Turn your bag completely inside out.

4. Take one handle and place the ends on the inside of the bag, aligning them with your stitch markers. Let the ends overlap into the inside of the bag by about 8 cm (3.1") for a strong, structural connection.

5. Thread one of the 20 cm tails onto your tapestry needle. Carefully sew the handle to the inside wall of the bag.

   

6. Important Tip: When sewing, pierce your needle only through the back loops of the bag's stitches. Do not let your needle go all the way through to the front of the bag. This keeps your stitching completely invisible on the outside!

7. Ensure your handle is not twisted before aligning and sewing the second end on the same side of the bag.

   
   
   

8. Repeat the sewing process for the second handle on the opposite side of the bag.

9. Weave in all remaining tails neatly on the inside of the bag.

10. Turn your bag right-side out, remove the markers, and admire your brand-new, hand-crafted tote bag!

🌟 Pro-Tips for a Flawless Crochet Tote Bag

1. Keep Your Tension Consistent: When working with 3 mm polyester cord, try to maintain firm, tight tension. This ensures your bag will keep its shape and not sag when filled with keys, wallets, and water bottles.

2. Block Your Bag: If your bag looks a bit stiff or wrinkled after completing it, gently steam block it. Use a garment steamer or a steam iron held slightly away from the bag (do not touch synthetic cord with a hot iron directly) to relax the stitches and flatten the base.

3. Add a Fabric Lining: If you want to carry smaller items like pens or cosmetic brushes, consider hand-sewing a simple fabric lining inside. You can also sew on a snap-button or magnetic closure to secure your belongings!

💬 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the best yarn for a crochet tote bag?

For sturdy, everyday bags, 3 mm polyester cord, macramé cord, and 100% cotton yarn  are the absolute best options. They hold their shape, resist stretching, and are highly durable. Acrylic yarn is generally not recommended for bags as it is too soft and will sag heavily under weight.

My stitch count is off by one or two stitches. Does it matter?

Yes! The shell stitch pattern in this tutorial requires a multiple of 6 stitches (our base has 90, which is 15 \times 6). If your base count is off, your shells will not line up correctly at the end of the round. If you find you have 89 or 91 stitches, simply add an increase or decrease in the last round of your single crochet base to make it exactly 90.

How do I prevent my bag handles from stretching?

Standard crochet chain straps are notorious for stretching. To prevent this, always opt for a dense, corded strap style like the Romanian Cord used in this pattern, or this slip stitch cord I mentioned here: Crochet no stretch bag handle pattern  . Sewing your strap ends deep into the inside of the bag (overlapping by 8 cm) also distributes the weight much better!

Did you enjoy making this bag? Let us know in the comments below, and don't forget to share your finished project photos on social media!

You can also view my next crochet pattern : the diamond trellis tote bag pattern